How To Replace The Left Barn Door Lock On The 2008 2014 Clubman Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          30 minutes - 1 hour

Sections

Left Barn Door Lock
9 steps

Flags

In Progress

This guide is a work in progress. Reload periodically to see the latest changes!

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

Back2008–2014 Mini Cooper Clubman
Full Screen
Options
History
Save to Favorites
Download PDF
Edit
Translate
Get Shareable Link
Embed This Guide
Notify Me of Changes
Stop Notifications

Introduction

I originally wrote this guide and posted it on North American Motoring forum, as How to Replace the Left Barn Door Lock on the 2007-2014 Clubman.

The split door lock is actually pretty easy to access. You will need to pull up the plastic panel that lies across the rear door opening. That will get you access to the two big Torx bolts that secure the lock to the car’s body, so you can remove it. Then you just slide it out through a convenient hole in the body made for the purpose, then unplug it from the wire connector. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

The MINI part number is 51247167498. Plug that into your favorite search engine and you’ll get a ton of hits for it. Almost everyone selling it is going to have it drop shipped to you directly from MINI’s warehouses, so just shop for the best price.

(Personally, I’m fond of ECS Tuning. Great service and the support the Mini community. Get the part here.)

If the door is already stuck shut, you need to open it to fix it. This thread on North American Motoring can help: How to manually open the rear barn doors.

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the Loading Sill Cover

Fold the folding “flat-load floor” of the trunk (boot) back out of the way.
Remove anything you have stored under it, as you’ll need to lift the actual bottom floor panel later.
You’re going to remove part #9 on this diagram. It’s held in place with four plastic expanding rivets on the inside of the luggage compartment, and three plastic clips that we’ll just pull out.

Fold the folding “flat-load floor” of the trunk (boot) back out of the way.

Remove anything you have stored under it, as you’ll need to lift the actual bottom floor panel later.

You’re going to remove part #9 on this diagram. It’s held in place with four plastic expanding rivets on the inside of the luggage compartment, and three plastic clips that we’ll just pull out.

1024

Step 2

              Remove four expanding rivets from loading sill cover

Remove the expanding rivets. Use your flathead screwdriver (or trim tool) to carefully pull out the center pin. (This will allow the shaft of the rivet to un-spread itself, so you can pop it out.)
Then use the flathead screwdriver to pry underneath the edge of the rivet and work it out. This will require some force.
You’ll have to bend over to look inside the boot to see the rivets. A flashlight will help a lot.

Remove the expanding rivets. Use your flathead screwdriver (or trim tool) to carefully pull out the center pin. (This will allow the shaft of the rivet to un-spread itself, so you can pop it out.)

Then use the flathead screwdriver to pry underneath the edge of the rivet and work it out. This will require some force.

You’ll have to bend over to look inside the boot to see the rivets. A flashlight will help a lot.

Step 3

              Remove the bottom floor panel

Remove the bottom floor panel (part number 9 on the diagram)
Use your fingers to pull the bottom edge of the Loading Sill Cover (part number 7) forward the front of the car.
(That’s away from you if you are standing outside the back of the car. I can’t imagine where else you would be standing.)
You’ll need to clear the metal tie-downs that are secured to the car’s body.
The cover is stiff but somewhat flexible; you won’t break it and you will need to use some force.

Remove the bottom floor panel (part number 9 on the diagram)

Use your fingers to pull the bottom edge of the Loading Sill Cover (part number 7) forward the front of the car.

(That’s away from you if you are standing outside the back of the car. I can’t imagine where else you would be standing.)

You’ll need to clear the metal tie-downs that are secured to the car’s body.

The cover is stiff but somewhat flexible; you won’t break it and you will need to use some force.

Step 4

              Remove the Loading Sill Cover

As soon as you have cleared the tie-downs, pull straight up on the Loading Sill Cover.
Pull hard. No, harder. Yes, that hard. Keep pulling. You won’t break it.
The three plastic clips that hold the sill in position should pop free.
Sometimes the clips come loose from the cover and stay in the car! Pry them out with a screwdriver or trim too. Slide them back into their slots on the Loading Sill Cover.
The hard part is now done!

As soon as you have cleared the tie-downs, pull straight up on the Loading Sill Cover.

Pull hard. No, harder. Yes, that hard. Keep pulling. You won’t break it.

The three plastic clips that hold the sill in position should pop free.

Sometimes the clips come loose from the cover and stay in the car! Pry them out with a screwdriver or trim too. Slide them back into their slots on the Loading Sill Cover.

The hard part is now done!

Step 5

              Remove the lock mechanism

Here’s a fresh diagram for you!
Unscrew the two Torx bolts (part number 2 on this diagram). They’re slightly stiff but shouldn’t be too hard to remove.
The lock mechanism is now free.
Reach into the body through an opening right behind it, and pull it out!

Here’s a fresh diagram for you!

Unscrew the two Torx bolts (part number 2 on this diagram). They’re slightly stiff but shouldn’t be too hard to remove.

The lock mechanism is now free.

Reach into the body through an opening right behind it, and pull it out!

Step 6

              Replace the lock mechanism

Disconnect the wire harness connector.
Throw out the P.O.S. lock mechanism that failed on you.
Plug the new lock into the wire harness.
Screw the lock mechanism back in; there is some side-to-side adjustability but I found just putting it dead center had it lined up correctly with the door.
Tighten the bolts very firmly.
Don’t strip the threads. You’re putting steel bolts into steel threads so that’s not likely, but these aren’t wheel bolts, so take it easy.

Disconnect the wire harness connector.

Throw out the P.O.S. lock mechanism that failed on you.

Plug the new lock into the wire harness.

Screw the lock mechanism back in; there is some side-to-side adjustability but I found just putting it dead center had it lined up correctly with the door.

Tighten the bolts very firmly.

Don’t strip the threads. You’re putting steel bolts into steel threads so that’s not likely, but these aren’t wheel bolts, so take it easy.

Step 7

              TEST the Lock

Ensure the split door is correctly caught and locks, and that it unlocks when you squeeze the handle

Ensure the split door is correctly caught and locks, and that it unlocks when you squeeze the handle

Step 8

              Put it back together

Re-install the Loading Sill Cover.
Make sure the three white plastic clips are slid into their slots inside the Loading Sill Cover.
Put in position, line them up into their holes and press down.
Tip: To make the clips pop into position, you’ll probably have to give them each a good, solid whack with your hand. (The clips rarely break; if they do, they cost about $0.70 each.)
Re-install the four expanding rivets
Remove the center pins from the expanding rivets.
Push each rivet back into position, then insert the center pin and push it down.

Re-install the Loading Sill Cover.

Make sure the three white plastic clips are slid into their slots inside the Loading Sill Cover.

Put in position, line them up into their holes and press down.

Tip: To make the clips pop into position, you’ll probably have to give them each a good, solid whack with your hand. (The clips rarely break; if they do, they cost about $0.70 each.)

Re-install the four expanding rivets

Remove the center pins from the expanding rivets.

Push each rivet back into position, then insert the center pin and push it down.

Step 9

              Put it back together (continued)

Check the rubber weather seal
Make sure the rubber weather seal is OVER the Loading Sill Cover
Put the floors back
This is ludicrously simple, so I’m not describing it.

Check the rubber weather seal

Make sure the rubber weather seal is OVER the Loading Sill Cover

Put the floors back

This is ludicrously simple, so I’m not describing it.

Enjoy a cool, refreshing beverage of your choice as you admire your handiwork and think how much money you saved by doing it yourself!

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor

                    rmohns

Member since: 08/27/2010

314 Reputation

                                      1 Guide authored                  



                       Badges:
                       9







                                                        +6 more badges

Fulufhelo Moffat Ramabulana - Sep 3, 2019

Great Thanks. I have done the above steps & replace the old lock. But now again with the new lock, the left barn door does not lock…. the right barn lock does lock perfectly but when I manually press the left barn handle, the door opens

Glenn Harmon - Jul 13, 2022

Worked a treat, easy peasy. Thanks very much for this!

In Progress#

Member-Contributed Guide#

Introduction#

What you need#

In Progress

Member-Contributed Guide

Introduction

What you need