Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

25

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

3

  • Display
  • 10 steps
  • Midframe
  • 5 steps
  • Daughterboard
  • 10 steps

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Introduction

If the device doesn’t charge or won’t record audio, then the microphone and charging port may need to be replaced. These components are located on the daughterboard.

What you need

Step 1

              Display
  • Turn off the device.
  • Prepare an iOpener to heat the edges of the display and soften the adhesive underneath. Alternatively, you may use a heat gun or a hair dryer.
  • The surfaces near the speaker and microphone (top and bottom respectively) have larger adhesive sections. These areas may require slightly longer heat exposure. The display should be heated until it’s slightly too hot to touch, for roughly two minutes.

Turn off the device.

Prepare an iOpener to heat the edges of the display and soften the adhesive underneath. Alternatively, you may use a heat gun or a hair dryer.

The surfaces near the speaker and microphone (top and bottom respectively) have larger adhesive sections. These areas may require slightly longer heat exposure. The display should be heated until it’s slightly too hot to touch, for roughly two minutes.

1024

Step 2

  • In the following steps, you will separate the display panel by slicing though the adhesive bonding the display to the Pixel’s chassis.
  • For reference, the back of the display panel is shown at left. Note the narrow clearance between the side of the display unit and the OLED panel. (The bezels indicate this spacing on the front.)
  • Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.

In the following steps, you will separate the display panel by slicing though the adhesive bonding the display to the Pixel’s chassis.

For reference, the back of the display panel is shown at left. Note the narrow clearance between the side of the display unit and the OLED panel. (The bezels indicate this spacing on the front.)

Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.

Step 3

  • Use a suction handle to pull up on the display and create a slight gap between the display and the phone’s chassis.
  • If your display is cracked, cover it with packing tape to help the suction cup adhere and prevent glass shards from popping loose.
  • You may need to apply more heat if this doesn’t come up. Don’t be impatient, this will take time. Once you can gently insert a tool in the gap, move on to the next step.

Use a suction handle to pull up on the display and create a slight gap between the display and the phone’s chassis.

If your display is cracked, cover it with packing tape to help the suction cup adhere and prevent glass shards from popping loose.

You may need to apply more heat if this doesn’t come up. Don’t be impatient, this will take time. Once you can gently insert a tool in the gap, move on to the next step.

Step 4

  • Insert an opening pick or a playing card into the gap between the chassis and the display assembly.
  • Begin to slide the opening pick around the edge of the display, cutting through the adhesive that secures it.
  • Do not try to lift or pry the screen off with the pick. Simply slide it around to detach the adhesive.
  • The display panel is extremely fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.

Insert an opening pick or a playing card into the gap between the chassis and the display assembly.

Begin to slide the opening pick around the edge of the display, cutting through the adhesive that secures it.

Do not try to lift or pry the screen off with the pick. Simply slide it around to detach the adhesive.

The display panel is extremely fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.

Step 5

  • Continue carefully separating the adhesive around the rest of the device.
  • There’s a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component.
  • Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.

Continue carefully separating the adhesive around the rest of the device.

There’s a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component.

Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.

Step 6

  • With the adhesive cut, slowly lift the display up from the top (the side with the speaker-grille cutout), carefully flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown.
  • Don’t forget there’s sticky adhesive everywhere, so consider resting an opening pick between the screen and display, to avoid spreading the gunk!
  • Do not attempt to completely remove the display yet, as it is still connected by a fragile ribbon cable. Be careful to not to strain the cable while positioning the display.

With the adhesive cut, slowly lift the display up from the top (the side with the speaker-grille cutout), carefully flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown.

Don’t forget there’s sticky adhesive everywhere, so consider resting an opening pick between the screen and display, to avoid spreading the gunk!

Do not attempt to completely remove the display yet, as it is still connected by a fragile ribbon cable. Be careful to not to strain the cable while positioning the display.

Step 7

  • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two black 3.5 mm T5 screws securing the display cable connector bracket.
  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two black 3.5 mm T5 screws securing the display cable connector bracket.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 8

  • Use tweezers to remove the bracket that holds the display connector in place.
  • This is just a piece of metal, and should come up very easily. (The cable is removed in the next step.)

Use tweezers to remove the bracket that holds the display connector in place.

This is just a piece of metal, and should come up very easily. (The cable is removed in the next step.)

Step 9

  • Use a spudger to pry up the display cable connector, freeing the display.
  • On reassembly, gently snap one side in, then the other.
  • Do not force this type of connector into place, as damage can occur. (You will need to feel a light snap, but force beyond this will permanently damage your connector.)

Use a spudger to pry up the display cable connector, freeing the display.

On reassembly, gently snap one side in, then the other.

Do not force this type of connector into place, as damage can occur. (You will need to feel a light snap, but force beyond this will permanently damage your connector.)

Step 10

  • Remove the display.
  • Some replacement displays do not come with an earpiece speaker grille. If your replacement screen doesn’t have one, be sure to transfer the grille from your old display to the new one.
  • During reassembly, pause here to test the functionality of your new part and replace the display adhesive.
  • During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Remove the display.

Some replacement displays do not come with an earpiece speaker grille. If your replacement screen doesn’t have one, be sure to transfer the grille from your old display to the new one.

During reassembly, pause here to test the functionality of your new part and replace the display adhesive.

During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Step 11

              Midframe
  • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the nine 3.5 mm screws securing the midframe.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the nine 3.5 mm screws securing the midframe.

Step 12

  • The midframe is held tightly in place by five clips. To release these clips, apply inward pressure with an opening tool as shown in the steps below.

The midframe is held tightly in place by five clips. To release these clips, apply inward pressure with an opening tool as shown in the steps below.

Step 13

  • Wedge an opening pick into the notch that is located at the bottom right corner of the phone.

Wedge an opening pick into the notch that is located at the bottom right corner of the phone.

Step 14

  • Slide the opening pick up both sides of the device in the small space between the midframe and the rear case to release the clips holding it in place.
  • Note that the clips are not released by sliding through them, but rather the inward pressure the opening pick creates as it enters the gap around them.
  • If the clasps fail to come undone, try pushing the edge you’re working on inward with your hand, or using a thicker tool like a spudger.
  • Do not attempt to remove the midframe yet! There is still a fragile ribbon cable underneath connecting the earpiece speaker to the motherboard.

Slide the opening pick up both sides of the device in the small space between the midframe and the rear case to release the clips holding it in place.

Note that the clips are not released by sliding through them, but rather the inward pressure the opening pick creates as it enters the gap around them.

If the clasps fail to come undone, try pushing the edge you’re working on inward with your hand, or using a thicker tool like a spudger.

Do not attempt to remove the midframe yet! There is still a fragile ribbon cable underneath connecting the earpiece speaker to the motherboard.

Step 15

  • Use a spudger to pry the earpiece speaker cable connector straight up, disconnecting it from the motherboard.
  • Remove the mid-frame from the device.
  • During reassembly, reattach the earpiece speaker cable and insert the top side of the midframe before you snap the clips back into place.

Use a spudger to pry the earpiece speaker cable connector straight up, disconnecting it from the motherboard.

Remove the mid-frame from the device.

During reassembly, reattach the earpiece speaker cable and insert the top side of the midframe before you snap the clips back into place.

Step 16

              Daughterboard
  • Use tweezers to lift up the silver strip at the top of the daughterboard, and peel it back to expose the connector underneath.

Use tweezers to lift up the silver strip at the top of the daughterboard, and peel it back to expose the connector underneath.

Step 17

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect ribbon cable from the daughterboard.

Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect ribbon cable from the daughterboard.

Step 18

  • The vibration motor is connected to the daughterboard with a small socket connector.
  • To disconnect the cable, use tweezers to carefully pull the connector away from the socket by its cables.
  • The connector should come out of the socket easily. If it does not, don’t pull on the cables with force. Instead, use an opening tool to gently pry it out.

The vibration motor is connected to the daughterboard with a small socket connector.

To disconnect the cable, use tweezers to carefully pull the connector away from the socket by its cables.

The connector should come out of the socket easily. If it does not, don’t pull on the cables with force. Instead, use an opening tool to gently pry it out.

Step 19

  • Remove the silver 2.5 mm T5 screw holding the daughterboard in place.

Remove the silver 2.5 mm T5 screw holding the daughterboard in place.

Step 20

  • Using tweezers, lift the contact pads located to the left of the daughterboard.

Using tweezers, lift the contact pads located to the left of the daughterboard.

Step 21

  • Optionally, you can pause here to remove the interconnect cable from the motherboard to keep it out of the way during the rest of the daughterboard removal process.
  • To do so, peel back the sticker on the motherboard side and use a spudger to lift the connector straight up.
  • If you choose to remove this interconnect cable, ensure that it is reinstalled in the same orientation. The phone will not power on if the cable is installed upside down.

Optionally, you can pause here to remove the interconnect cable from the motherboard to keep it out of the way during the rest of the daughterboard removal process.

To do so, peel back the sticker on the motherboard side and use a spudger to lift the connector straight up.

If you choose to remove this interconnect cable, ensure that it is reinstalled in the same orientation. The phone will not power on if the cable is installed upside down.

Step 22

  • Using tweezers, lift the daughterboard up and flip it over onto the battery.
  • Don’t try to remove the daughterboard yet! There are still two coaxial cables connected to its underside.

Using tweezers, lift the daughterboard up and flip it over onto the battery.

Don’t try to remove the daughterboard yet! There are still two coaxial cables connected to its underside.

Step 23

  • Use a spudger to pry up the black and white coaxial cables attached to underside of the daughterboard.
  • Coaxial cable connectors and sockets are fragile. To avoid damaging the connectors, be sure to gently pry them straight off of the board.
  • When reconnecting these cables, lay the daughterboard upside down on the battery and use tweezers to carefully position each connector over its socket on the board, then press it straight down until it snaps into place.

Use a spudger to pry up the black and white coaxial cables attached to underside of the daughterboard.

Coaxial cable connectors and sockets are fragile. To avoid damaging the connectors, be sure to gently pry them straight off of the board.

When reconnecting these cables, lay the daughterboard upside down on the battery and use tweezers to carefully position each connector over its socket on the board, then press it straight down until it snaps into place.

Step 24

  • Use tweezers to carefully pull each coax cable out of its retaining clip.

Use tweezers to carefully pull each coax cable out of its retaining clip.

Step 25

  • Remove the daughterboard from the device.
  • If your replacement part does not come with a plastic barometric vent, use the edge of an opening tool to gently lift the vent off of the old daughterboard and transfer it to the new one.
  • You may need to use some adhesive or double-sided tape in order to attach the vent to the new part. If you do, be sure not to cover the vent hole on the bottom.

Remove the daughterboard from the device.

If your replacement part does not come with a plastic barometric vent, use the edge of an opening tool to gently lift the vent off of the old daughterboard and transfer it to the new one.

You may need to use some adhesive or double-sided tape in order to attach the vent to the new part. If you do, be sure not to cover the vent hole on the bottom.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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                    Camaryn Chambers

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                                            13 Guides authored

timothy james - Oct 12, 2017

Reply

Hi, I’m looking to fix my google pixel, it has the common microphone problem where I can’t record any audio/ make calls on m device. Where can i purchase a replacement for the daughterboard? I really need to get it fixed. Thanks

Phillip - May 30, 2019

Reply

That’s a lot of steps. I miss the days where you could just pop the back of the phone case off. :/

Henry Scharf - Aug 30, 2019

Reply

where can I look on the daughterboard if everything else seems to work except the speaker? and I don’t mean the earpiece speaker, the main speaker below. The problem appeared after I replaced the battery, so its most likely something I’ve done, I’ve retraced my steps but I don’t see any major issues.

Taylor Dixon - Sep 3, 2019

Hey Henry! The daughterboard connects to the speaker with two golden pins that rest on the contact pads that stick out to the right of the speaker. You can see them in this photo. I would recommend cleaning the pins and the pad with some isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. If that doesn’t fix the problem, check all the pins on both ends of the big interconnect cable and its corresponding sockets on the two boards—you may have accidentally bent one of them! If that’s the case and the bend is obvious, you can try to bend the offending pin back into place, or pick up a replacement cable. Hope this helps!

Adam Lee - Sep 14, 2020

@taylord Thank you so much for pointing out those pins! You likely saved my sister’s phone. I’m fairly experienced with hardware repair but foolishly allowed one of the coax cables to run underneath the corner of the daughterboard. After cleaning the contacts and reinstalling the daughterboard the speakers and microphone are working, which is why I was trying to replace the board in the first place.

Thank you!